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Botswana 2023 - Page 2

Botswana 2023

Finishing Packing

PAGE TWO.

3/24 - lots of good lion contact on the morning bush drive. There are two prides that were once one but the four brothers had a power struggle and split in two. Apparently, they are famous as the Savute prides and one even has a FB page - which I will have to look up when I have access to internet.

Good Night Moon, over Africa

This was a breeding couple. Look at the snarl on that lady lion's face!

Guess he got the hint!

3/24/23

somany amazing sightings today! I hardly know where to start.

We were also privileged to witness wildebeest, giraffe, jackal , buffalo, and ostrich in the afternoon.

A herd of wildebeest

Black backed jackal

Cape Buffalo

Friendly gitaffe

Random favorites from Savute

Very rare Ground Hornbill

Even more rare, double headed giraffe

3/25 On our final bush drive before departing ended up being an exceptional opportunity to view morning leopards. Once again, Obed knew which area to look for them. A hyena was spotted, indicating great interest in one direction. He drove that way and there they were - mom and 2 nearly grown cubs taking turns devouring an impala in a tree. Extraordinary!! One would go up the tree, and the other would come down and flop down in the shade. Obed expertly jockeyed the vehicle around for a good photo advantage. The male tolerated that for a bit, then stood up, looking directly at us to explore what we were up to. They say we are safe in the open Jeep bed unless we stand up, lean out, etc. But I literally couldn’t breath as he locked eyes with me and was so grateful when we backed away and left the area. No video of that encounter!!!!

This is where he locked eyes with me, got up, headed straight for me! Thank God, Obed backed up and cleared out!

We had not encountered an elephant yet and I was a little sad but knew we had many days ahead of us. Then, we drove around a bend and were blessed with this beautiful young gentleman.

After brunch, it was time to leave Savute Game Lodge. I have not said enough about the staff in this beautiful, serene hideaway in the African bush. Every time we leave camp for our next adventure, they are waving farewell. When we arrive back, they greet us with cool, scented washcloths. They serve us meals as if we are valued family. Each evening the chef proudly announces the menu they have prepared- followed by an appreciative "mmmm", which the guests quickly learn to join in on. They sit with us when possible and chat about their work and the opportunities that the company provides for learning and growth. It might just be an emphasis on excellence in customer service, but it feels very welcoming after traveling half way around the world. There is evident pride and respect for their lodge, their guests and each other. It was hard to leave.

Men's room

Ladies room

Goodbye, Savute.

On to the Okavango Delta!!

After brunch, we moved via bush plane to Camp Okavango in the Delta region. Flying into the area, it appeared to me that there was very little water - green fields interspersed with small streams and ponds. But Jaco told me that it is all water - with marsh grass and plants covering most of it. Of course! That made much more sense!

We were greeted with a welcome concert. Beautiful. We were warned to keep our doors locked at all times because baboons will enter your room and create havoc. We saw them outside our window -they seem very skittish. The bungalow is movie worthy beautiful. Secluded and picturesque surrounded by the music of the bush birds occasionally harmonized by baboon calls.

We had an introductory boat excursion where the guide, Julius, pointed out birds, plants, and flowers. One is called the yellow pistol flower, because if you squeeze the bulb at the base of the bloom, it squirts water at you. He also stopped to point out tiny frogs, called the African painted frog. When they chirp at night it is not raucous- it sounds like thousands of tiny crystal wind chimes. Then we saw some hippo - and learned quickly that they rule the river. No way will a boat try to push them around. Julius took an opportunity to speed past them as quickly as the boat would go and we safely passed.

Yellow pistol flower. Squeeze the bulb beneath the blossom and it squirts water at you! 🤣

Such serenity - teeming with life!

We then were taken on a mokoro ride - a traditional mokoro is a dugout canoe (ours was fiberglass) powered by a driver in the back pushing with a long pole. African version of a gondola.

Then a “sundowner” on the shore line - but we couldn’t linger because it wouldn’t be safe to be there when the hippos emerge to the grassland in the evening. Okay, then! Sounds good to me!

Our first evening sundowner in the delta with our boating guides.

For dinner we had a raw ostrich appetizer and beef filet cooked to order with many scrumptious side dishes. We stayed by the fire pit briefly but headed to bed to rest up before 5 AM wake-up.

3/26 We started the day again with coffee and a continental breakfast before our 6:30 AM bush walk . Our guide Julius was again an expert naturalist, pointing out plants and what they are used for, animal scat, and more instruction on following tracks. Saw some warthog at a distance - they are very shy. We were watching a herd of water buffalo - being sure to maintain distance and stay downwind. However, as we negotiated our way back to our boat, we had an encounter with a water buffalo bull that was not pleased with our visit to his herd. He was glaring at us from an opening between bushes. Julius commanded us to “get back” as he backed up with rifle poised in case of a charge. Apparently, this was not part of the typical morning walk and was quite an adrenaline rush. Our walk was extended because we had to detour around the angry bull. On the way back we saw a sleeping crocodile on the shore line.

Our fearless guide, Julius!

Cape buffalo from a safe distance!!

termite mound

Sleeping crocodile viewed from our boat.

Returned for brunch very hot, tired, thirsty and a bit shaken.

(You may have noticed many references to meals that are served. We are fed delicious food SIX times a day!

Continental breakfast before our early morning excursion. Then, full breakfast after. Sometimes a break in activities before or after lunch. Tea and "crumpets" around 3. Then a "sundowner ", which is happy hour during the late afternoon activity. Followed by a full, sit down dinner between 7 and 8 pm. )

In the afternoon we were treated to helicopter ride of the area - flying over the delta gives such a different perspective of the wildlife paradise this area is. Herds of elephants, hippos, antelope of all kinds, giraffe, wandering around in total freedom. If there ever was a modern day image of the Garden of Eden, this would be it. I know that I will hate zoos more than ever now. We witnessed a single pair of lion as we flew over. It seemed that they may have been stalking a herd of impala but the presence of the helicopter ruined their plan. It was difficult to get great pictures so I just soaked in the once in a lifetime experience.

my one photo of the female lion. The sun was so bright on my phone screen that I was shooting pictures blindly. 😢

In the evening we went again for a boat ride. Again, Julius had a lot to show us as we headed to the mokoro and our “sundowner”. However, a herd of hippos had a different plan for the evening and made it clear that we were NOT going in that direction. They spread out across the river, posturing and threatening. Again, the pictures aren’t great but when one huge bull started running for us through the shallow water photography was not high on the list! For a brief moment- seemed way too long ….the propeller was stuck in the mud and then we dashed away at full speed. Thank you, Julius!!

This might not look like much, but trust me that it was a very angry hippo, pushing himself out of the water, bellowing, and coming toward us!! An an amateur photographer misses a lot of great shots

By evening I was feeling exceptionally tired and a bit dehydrated so we retired to our room immediately after dinner. I had a terrific sleep again, but opted not to participate in the morning bush walk. Apparently I missed a lot but I knew I needed some downtime. Actually, we are free to rest and recover until 4PM which sounds like a gift right now.

Went out for our evening cruise. It was very relaxing for a bit. Then we turned a bend and a line of hippos blocked the way - from bank to bank. Julius turned around and went down a side channel which was more narrow, and once again there was a bank to bank barricade of hippos. He went back the first direction, gunned the engine and the animals submerged. As we went through, one of them rammed the boat. It was quite nerve wracking but exciting in a fairly “that was fun. Now we’re DONE!” way.

This is an angry hippo. It gets worse but this photographer didn't catch it!!!

One of the wonderful couples we shared our adventures with.

A delicious farewell dinner and then back to the room to pack for our third destination, Chobe Game Lodge. Where Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton were married for the second time. Should be interesting!

"Colonialized style luxury, uniforms of staff, general formality, presents a different atmosphere from the "family friend " aura of the last two lodges. It is lovely. Just very different.

PAGE ONE-

If you have had the patience to follow along this far, you know I am inept with technology. I have seemingly erased (or maybe they are hiding ...) two intros to this journal. Months of packing and unpacking, then repacking, questions asked and answered. Zoom calls, communication with our traveling buddies that Jaco introduced us to, we are on our way!

Safari 2023

But, how am I going to leave this sweet face?

So, now, hopefully a good night's sleep before the adventure begins.

3/21 - Arrived! After a flight from Philadelphia to Atlanta and then a 3pm flight from Atlanta, arriving in Johannesburg at 8 AM US East Coast time, we are here but exhausted.

A bit weary, admittedly a little anxious and surprisingly short of breath hauling our luggage around, meaning a concerning need for MANY rest breaks. Then my brother, David told me we were at approximately 7000 ft elevation. That made me feel a little better .....

We were met by Prince, an impeccably dressed South African gentleman who assisted us into his white Mercedes, offering chilled towels and water. He gave us a tour of the area while driving. The roads are great and the drivers much safer and more polite than at home. Dropped us off at the Peech Hotel. Wow! Greeted again with chilled wet towels scented with lemongrass and sparkling fruit drinks. The room is fabulous, dinner was great, and now to catch up on some rest. Serenaded by the remnants of a quietly rumbling thunderstorm.

Good night, South Africa.

3/22/2023

We went to bed about 8:30 last night - I woke at 2 and read for a couple of hours, sure that I wouldn't sleep anymore. Next thing I knew, it was 9:45 AM and we were about to miss breakfast! Now, I am not usually someone who enjoys "food pictures" but this, I couldn't pass up.

Delicious, strong coffee served with warm frothy heavy cream!

I admit, I gave my bacon wrapped sausages to George and thoroughly enjoyed the portobello and tomato , fluffy eggs and perfect bread!

As soon as we "rest up" from breakfast, we will venture into town to get some sunscreen and contact lens solution. There is a lovely park adjacent to the hotel that we hope to explore as well.

Walked a couple of blocks into a shopping area - acquired the things I needed. I am not brave - that probably doesn't surprise anyone reading this. A sad man approached us asking for money or food, speaking in s language that I, of course, didn't understand. My first inclination is just to give him lots of money but we gave him a few Rand. (One Rand = $0.053). Then he indicated that he wanted us to go in a food store with him but I felt uncomfortable. I wanted to just give him more $$ but had a gut feeling we might be getting in too deep. So, we just left. No matter how it ends, it always makes me sad.
But from there we walked to a local park. A lovely sunny, breezy day, about 77F. A lovely area where locals run their kids and dogs. Very beautiful trees which I have never seen before. Not surprising! 🤣

Interesting bark, right?

We spent a bit of time by the pool reading and relaxing, some more!

Dinner time again and we had made plans to venture out with another couple. But, I am unwilling to intrude on the sense of total relaxation we have attained, so we will go to the hotel dining room and once again be treated like welcome friends. The hospitality is astounding!

Another very relaxing dinner-there was only one other person in the restaurant. She has a farm in Botswana that supplies all of the vegetables and herbs to the safari lodges. Had another delicious dinner and enjoyable time to visit.

Started the morning with another delectable breakfast.

The time for the big adventure to start has arrived!!

3/23/23

We flew from Johannesburg to Maun, with the assistance of the driver and escort company that Jaco had arranged. We met Jaco and the other two couples that he had introduced us to via email and had become friends with over the months. Mandy and John are from Arizona and Mark and Tara are from Australia. Jaco is a low key gentleman from South Africa and exudes a sense of quiet confidence that instantly made us feel comfortable. We all boarded the bush plane to our first lodge, Savute Game Lodge.

(Pictures above)

We met our guide and driver, Obed and immediately went on a bush drive before checking into the lodge. We saw lots of impala! They are so plentiful that the joke is “oh, it’s just another herd of impala. (Yawn.)”. Had two great giraffe sightings and lots of zebra, and some wildebeest . There was a lion sighting - one beautiful but injured male napping in the sun quite close to the road. In the afternoon we went back to the same area to see if anything was going on. There we came upon 2 who walked around the Jeep checking us out. It was a mating pair that had apparently been busy all day and the female was having none of it . Obed’s familiarity of the area was obvious as members of the group would say “let’s see lions” and he knew where to look. Or, “I would like to see giraffe”, and he seemed to be able to make them materialize. We joked that he had a team out, releasing the correct animal when needed. It actually was totally Obed’s skill.

Look at the snarl on that lady lion's face!

The Savute Lodge is splendid. Individual villas down a jungle like path. Beautiful sitting areas, a library, pool, and a camp fire site on the lookout deck. The staff is wonderful and hospitable making us feel like family, waving goodbye and singing to us on our way out of camp and greeting us with cool towels when we return.

A continental breakfast is served at 6 AM followed by a bush drive in open, windowless Range Rovers. Our guide Obed, again, was a wealth of knowledge about the area, the animals, the history of the various prides, and their locations. I could stay out all day listening to him. Return for a sumptuous brunch and then on an afternoon bush drive.

© 2023 traveling-with-coots.com. Our first “Sundowner “ hosted by Obed. At end of the bush drive we were are served a “sundowner”, a combination of afternoon tea / happy hour, 3/24 - lots of good lion contact on the morning bush drive. There are two prides that were once one but the four brothers had a power struggle and split in two. Apparently, they are famous as the Savute prides and one even has a FB page - which I will have to look up when I have access to internet.

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